ever takes on, the Col de Galibier.
The weather has been getting warmer every day, so I planned my departure
for just as soon as possible after the 7 AM breakfast of deli meats,
cheese, yogurt, fruit, croissants, granola and coffee. (Yes, I had some
of each.) My legs felt wooden on the 15 kilometer run upriver to Saint
Michelle-de-Maureinne, casting doubt on my rest-day strategy. But maybe I
should have just let my breakfast settle.
The valley is extremely tight, with steep granite faces on either side.
The morning sun was not yet high enough to reach down into the valley.
The autoroute parallels the railroad, which parallels the departmental
road, which parallels the river. Each crosses the other numerous times,
like some Gordian knot, and at times the valley is only wide enough to
contain the four. It was a scenic, and cool, start to the day.
Right turn at the center of town, over the river, and immediately up the
12 kilometer, 1000 meter climb to the Col de Telegraph. An overall
average 8% grade, with almost every kilometer signed at 8% or 9%. My
strategy today was to leave it in my tallest gear (39 x 29), spinning
through the easy grades, grinding through the average grades and standing
on the steeper grades. Sort of like a simulated fixed-gear. After about
an hour and ten minutes, I found Tom on the top, where I had a Coke and a
yummy apple tart. Lars and Evan were not far behind me and we took off
together.
It was a short, fast 5 kilometer descent to the unappealing ski village of
Valloire, then a long grind out of town. The climb to the Col de Galibier
is another 17 kilometers, but with about 1200 meters gain, to a height of
2685 meters, close to 9,000 feet in old money. At one point I had to
navigate a very large herd of sheep being streamed across the road to an
upper pasture. Bikes could make their way through, but the cars had to
wait. With 8 kilometers to go, you confront a wall with switchbacks cut
into the face, visibly rising several hundred meters. I took a break
before and after. With about 4 kilometers left, I was out of water, so I
stopped at the cheese shop. Water, an Orangina, a nice hunk of
Beaufort cheese and spectacular scenery made for a refreshing stop. I'll
be looking for a supplier of Beaufort cheese when I get home, along with
the "honey stinger" waffles Tom has been supplying.
Many cars used the tunnel for the final kilometer, but of course the bikes
all went to the col, and I found Tom there again. Obligatory photos, then
down off the other side, since there is no infrastructure, save for a
parking lot. My front brakes are grabbing, since they need to be toed-in
properly, and the hammering on the descent was annoying. Tom and I found a
very nice lunch at the junction at Col du Lautaret (omlette, green salad, fries and potato salad), while the others went futher down to La Grave for
something less touristy and ostensibly of better quality. The final
kilometers featured several tunnels, up to 700 meters long, and often
curved. Cars were good about letting me take the whole lane since it was
downhill, and my flashing lights (front and rear) gave me an extra measure
of security. Waterfalls, worthy of Yosemite or the Columbia River gorge,
streamed off the cliffs on either side, without so much as a scenic
overlook or sign along the road.
We are staying above Bourg d'Oisans, a mecca for cyclists at the base of
Alpe d'Huez. The other clients are staying at Le Cassini in Freny
d'Oisans, located in yet another tight valley. Owing to a booking error,
Tom and I are in a private home three kilometers down the road. The
owners, Marvin and Lisa, are Americans, who help support VeloSki tours,
Glenn Erickson tours, and climbing guides, in addition to bailing out
people who don't have a hotel room. Their bike shed has about $60,000
worth of high-end single and tandem bicycles belonging to various folks
who leave a bike or two over here. Tom and I will be shuttling back and
forth to the hotel for meals.
It was a good day on the bike, perhaps one of my toughest ever, with 2300
meters of climbing in 85 kilometers. Going over the Galibier felt like a
real accomplishment, and I know I will really enjoy watching every time
the Tour goes over it.
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