The Baronnies are the low mountain range just north of Mont Ventoux in southeastern France. Legend has it that Hannibal and his elephants crossed the Baronnies about 200 BC. Later, the Romans occupied the area. The Baronnies were independent of France until around 1300. During the 1500s, region was also a Protestant stronghold. As a result, the Baronnies did not fare well during the French wars of religion (late 1500s). From the 1700s until just recently, the Baronnies suffered economically, but they became a tourist destination around 1980.
I arrived in Buis-les-Baronnies (founded in the 12th century) last week. The weather was hot and sunny, a welcome change from the rainy weather of Alsace. I stayed in a 12-room hotel, Les Arcades Le Lion D'or. Each room had air-conditioning, and there was even swimming pool (although I never found out exactly where the pool was located). The breakfasts were good, and the local market was located right in front of the hotel, which made parking slightly problematic on Wednesdays and Saturdays. However, this wasn't anything that couldn't be dealt with.
I managed to get in two great rides during my time in the Baronnies. My first ride headed north from town (you either head north or south) to go over three cols (Col de Perty (Cat 1) + Col de St. Jean (Cat 2) + Col de Mévouillon (Cat 4)). I had planned to do two more, but my legs ran out of gas. The following day, I rode up through one of those Provence hillside villages (Brantes). Olive trees in the foreground, and Mont Ventoux in the background. The olive groves may have been around since Roman times.
And no visit to Provence would be complete without lavender.
Wednesday, July 23, 2014
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