Paul and Kate own a wonderfully renovated 18th century house (with a swimming pool). There are two very large bedrooms and a third bedroom that is divided into two large rooms. There is a dining room downstairs, where we ate breakfast (and dinner when the weather was bad one evening). Evening meals are usually on the terrace. Bicycles are stored in a secure garage, and Paul has a pretty complete workshop. Bicycles can be rented in nearby Sault too.
Breakfasts were a bit more substantial than the typical French breakfast of coffee, bread, and juice—we always had porridge and eggs. Fresh bread is delivered to Serre des Ormes every morning. Dinner, wine, and dessert is served every evening. Kate is an outstanding chef. She uses locally grown, organic ingredients whenever possible. While every dinner was outstanding, I think that the hit of the week was Kate's aubergines à la parmesane (eggplant parmesan). Even the avowed carnivores among us said that this meal was their favorite.
Day 1: The cycling was fantastic. Kate took Matt and Devon (father-son team from the U.K.) and myself on a tour down the Gorges de la Méouge and then around a big loop north of Sisteron (https://www.relive.cc/view/2492150581). We stopped about for a coffee at the hilltop town of Ventavon, where Paul caught up with us. Paul and Kate took off when we reached the bottom of the Gorges de la Méouge. Matt, Devon, and I followed up the gorge. The climb up the gorge is not very difficult; however, the three of us suffered greatly from the remnants of last week's heat wave. We were sufficiently cooked by the time we reached Serre des Ormes, where it was time for a cold drink and a nap.
Day 2: Col d'Araud, Col de Muse, and Col Saint Jean ( https://www.relive.cc/view/2494785041). Une salad de chèvre chaud at the snack bar in Lachau—tasty! The Col de Muse is narrow and steep, but there are very few cars. There is a monument to a group of Resistance fighters who were tortured and murdered by the Nazis near the bottom of Col de Muse. Thankfully, the weather cooled off a bit. Mont Ventoux one—Matt and Devon zero.
Day 4: Resting up from the heat and three days of hard riding.
Day 5: I rode with Simon (Scotland) from Eyguins (north of Sisteron). We did a large loop through Aspremont and over Col de Bachassette (https://www.relive.cc/view/2503063400). Smooth roads with very little traffic, and the scenery was a bit more alpine. Absolutely gorgeous!!! This was the best ride of the week. Matt and Devon conquered Ventoux. It was Kate's night off so all of the guests (myself included) ate dinner in Sisteron.
Day 6: I had planned to ride a loop through Montbrun les Bains, over the top of Col de Macuègne, and back through Séderon to Serre des Ormes (https://www.relive.cc/view/2505892278). I made it over Col de Mévoullon and Col d'Aulan with not difficulties. I stopped to fill water bottles in Montbrun les Bains, a really cool little town that was built into the side of a hill/mountain. The Col de Macuègne, longest climb of the day, starts off easy and then gets steep for about 5 kilometers, but there is a great view of Mont Ventoux from one of the hairpins. There is a little village about 2 kilometers from the top of the climb where you can fill your water bottle and sit on a nice bench. The climb is easy from village—or so I'm told. About 200–300 meters past the village, I heard a bang and a hissing sound. The rear tire was coming apart. After about 5 minutes of effort, I decided that the tire was beyond repair and called Paul, who graciously drove up to give me a ride back. Unfortunately, I missed the 20 kilometer descent back to Serre des Ormes.
It was a great week, and I definitely recommend Serre des Ormes to all cyclists—even cyclists with non-cycling partners. Make your reservations early!
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